Wednesday, 7 March 2012
A good start to the year
Tuesday, 24 June 2008
Rhapsody Extension

Tuesday, 17 June 2008
Rhapsody - E11? McClure speaks about the grade

On the grade. A lot of people want the route downgraded for whatever reason, typical Brits! Firstly I'm hardly qualified having only climbed E9. The climbing is at least hard F8c, it felt like F8c+ compared to other sport routes I've done quickly, but perhaps fear added a notch. That makes E9 for effort straight away. Originally I assumed it may be E10, going straight for the lead after just a few hours looking at the route, taking a massive whipper and barely feeling a thing. The fall was safe. But I underestimated the route. There is a lot more climbing above where I fell, and on my lead I had to dig deeper than I have for a long time. The last move was as close as it gets. Perhaps if I'd fallen I'd have known for sure.... What I will say is that Dave did not overgrade the route. Not from what he experienced. The climbing is super hard, and the falls are big. Dave was hurting himself repeatedly during the falls. He didn't know if one of them could turn out really nasty. The first ascencionist can only propose a grade. This is how it works."
Sunday, 15 June 2008
Steve McClure climbs Rhapsody & Sonnie Trotter climbs it again

Today Steve McClure became the third person to climb the route. A climber in fantastic form succeeded on a super-fast ascent. 4 days spread over 2 visits. Success on the third redpoint. But only just. Most climbers will recognise the thoughts behind that facial expression on the last photo in this sequence.



Tuesday, 10 June 2008
Filming Rhapsody

To film climbing is all about getting your camera into the right position. Well, no, there is a lot more to it than that. But getting the right camera angle is hugely important.
On the gritstone of England there is often a convenient vantage point that you can stroll to. On steep overhanging limestone it is usually easy to get out in space anchored off bolts. But our challenge at Dumbarton is as tough as it gets. Ideally we would get a helicopter hovering 20 metres above and out from the crag, with a gyro stabilised HD camera. But then we realised that the airflow from the rotors might be a bit distracting for Mr Trotter. We also realised that £3,500 per day would have presented a quite significant bill at the end of the 4 weeks we have spent on this shoot.
In previous years we have used a camera on a 5 metre boom, with remote pan and tilt. We get some good shots, but as soon as the wind picks up it is like trying to control a rabid bitch on heat.
So we got our heads together. An A-Frame works well, but at Dumbarton we need to get up, as well as out.
Cory came up with the idea of a ladder. Yeah right. So I did a bit of engineering. And then the Hot Aches crash test dummy (aka Mr Diffley) had the balls to walk out on it.
On day one of 'ladder cam' it all went quite well. The technique is to shuffle out there delicately, then stick you head through the top rungs of the ladder, camera underneath, and look through the view finder.
On Friday afternoon Diff had to leave early for a TV shoot in Fort William. So it was down to me to walk the ladder and have faith in my own engineering. I have honestly never been so frightened in my life.
Sonnie went first. I was out there at 40 degrees, shaking like an idiot. The ladder would creak. I'm meant to concentrate on filming, but all I can think about is which point of attachment will fail first, and how I will plummet off the top of Dumbarton, wiping out Sonnie on what would have certainly this time been his successfull attempt.
Sonnie fell, and I didn't. So I sat on the top, promising myself that I wouldn't go out on the ladder again. But then it was Cory's turn. How could I not go out on the ladder? It would have been a message that I didn't think his project was as important as Sonnie's. And it is.
So I dug deep and went out there again. Cory fell, and so it was Sonnie's turn once more. No bloody choice. So out again. Controling my breathing, too deep and the ladder would creak. Then 3 creaks in a quick succession!
Monday.
Back at the crag and fortunately Diff is back with us. The wind is wild, roughly 25mph, gusting to 40. Diff is 15 metres above me, and I scream through the wind that there is no way he can go out on the ladder. He looks at me but my voice is lost in the wind. He climbs out there, right to the end. I reckon it is at least E8 to get to that point. But Diff shuffles along slowly with the swagger of either a true professional or a complete idiot.
Funilly enough we do a lot of film work for TV where someone is employed to look after health and safety. So we have learned to work with safety ropes and all sort of back ups. But if this was for TV we would have been shut down immediately. Shoot cancelled. End of story.
Another fall, then Cory falls too, and at 4pm Diff heads back out there. I keep quiet, shoot my section of the climb, and hope that Diff doesn't die, and if he does die, hope that he doesn't take out all of the climbing talent on his way down.
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So what else can I say. Everyone lived. The footage is superb. We hope you enjoy it when the DVD comes out this autumn.
--
Dave B
Rhapsody Repeated
Sonnie Trotter on the final moves of Rhapsody, Dumbarton Rock. Scotland. Photo copyright Hot Aches ProductionsI woke this morning hung over and had to think hard. Did I dream all that about yesterday? But no. As you will see on Sonnie Trotters blog, Rhapsody put up a considerable fight, but it has, at last, been repeated.
A month of effort. A month of hoping for good conditions each day as we drove to the crag. 23 huge falls. Yesterday was warm, but after a long wait we finally had some wind. In fact it was a gale blowing against the headwall and up there it felt freezing.
On abseil my stabilising ropes were lashed so tight I thought they might snap. On 'ladder cam' at the top Diff had probably the scariest filming position in the world. Even on the ground Lynwen was battling with the wind.
There is a good story to be told about the ascent. Almost a fall from the finishing sloper. But Sonnie can tell the story better, and I'm sure he will.
Thanks to all the people who have helped us on this shoot. Garth, for the daily on the spot morning weather reports, Tony, Guy, Emma and Caroline for shooting additional camera for us, and to all the locals who have had to put up with us hogging the headwall for a month.
We are not quite finished yet at Dumbarton. Cory reached a new high point on Requiem yesterday. Every session he gets higher and one or two more sessions might be enough for success. So we'll be back this week.
Thursday, 29 May 2008
Stay or Go?
Wednesday, 28 May 2008
Ned Rescue at Dumbarton
Question: How many emergency service personnel does it take to rescue a youth from the top of one of Dumbarton's boulders?
Before I tell you the answer, more about the term 'ned'. In the UK, each region seems to have it's own terminology for it's 'colourfull local youth'. In some areas they are 'Scallies', 'asbo's' seems to have caught on too. But in Scotland they are known as NEDs, short for 'Non-Educated Delinquents'.

Dumbarton Rock has it's fair share of youngsters who use the venue to refine their graffiti-ing and bottle smashing skills as well as getting in some early practice at Scotland's national sport - binge drinking. Occasionally they will venture onto the rock. A tide mark of graffitti marks the high point at which the generations have reached.

On Friday three of them ventured to the top of one of the boulders. Two got down. The third was not so brave, and after an hour of being marooned he telephoned for rescue.
5 Police

6 Fire Fighters

The Coast Guard and an RAF helicopter

There was a lot of discussion between the assembled professionals, until finally Sonnie Trotter, Cory Richards and Peter Roy scrambled up, put a harness on the lad and coaxed him down.



And finally, working hard:

Film making is hard work. Straight off the plane from Canada where she was filming a travel doc for BBC, Lynwen Griffiths gets a couple of hours sleep before our filming starts at Dumbarton.
Saturday, 24 May 2008
Air Time at Dumbarton
One of the best things about having made climbing films for some years now is that we get to work with people again and again in different places around the world. I was looking forward to the current shoot with Sonnie Trotter and Cory Richards because because working with them is just plain simple good fun.
Truth is that I wasn’t really expecting Sonnie to be back in
Cory Richards’ preparation was even worse. ‘8 months on the couch’, and now he is here to climb a route way harder than anything he has ever climbed before (on bolts, or trad). Cory is a photographer, and trips are always photography first and climbing second. But this time is different, and so for both guys the visit to Dumbarton is really about refinding their climbing mojo and regaining fitness. I think I’m actually a bit jealous. This year has all been filming first, and climbing last. To take three weeks off to focus on a superb route; now that would just be heaven.
It is hard for high profile climbers to go about their task anonymously. The internet has been buzzing with reports of the guys’ progress. Each day at the crag a friendly and enthusiastic crowd gathers. Sonnie has also been giving his perspective on his climbing and all things Scottish on his blog.
The weather has been exceptional this year. Every day has been dry. Normally we will get a good week in May, but not a whole month. But the truth is that climbing conditions have been quite poor. It has been hot and everyday the wind has been from the east, meaning that the headwall has been sheltered by the castle. Then at last, late on Thursday really good conditions did finally arrive. Unfortunately Sonnie had already blown it. And he was mad. Really mad. And yes, quite rightly so. He had warmed up on the route while it was still hot and lost too much skin.
Now conditions were perfect. Up on the headwall I filmed as he powered his way higher, looking composed and comfortable. Then as he traversed towards me into the crux I saw that he had his finger tips taped up. The fall was almost inevitable. But Sonnie’s rationale was good. A small chance of success, but more likely he will take that big fall. Becoming comfortable with the fall is essential for success. And so, to emphasis the point, he pulled up, and climbed through once more, falling from even higher.
The progress of Cory on Requiem is pretty inspiring. Each day achieves a piece of progress, a sequence refined, a longer link, a gain in stamina.
Cory Richards, new dental arrangement after an encounter with Requiem, E8 6c. Copyright Sonnie Trotter
So now there are just a few days left. I have no doubt that Sonnie can climb the route. Whether he will, in the time he has left, is far from certain. But that is good. If outcomes were certain, then they just wouldn’t be interesting. The climbing ability is there. Success is down to tactics, timing, strategy, conditions and of course luck.
Comparisons with
Interestingly Sonnie has found two additional lines up the Rhapsody headwall. Some may think this is a big deal, a more direct finish rather than the left then right of Rhapsody. But the Rhapsody sequence is superb and Sonnie is following Dave’s sequence hold for hold. So maybe the headwall will also get a new direct finish as well. We shall see. The forecast remains good. Hopefully skin will last out the week.
Hot Aches are working with Sonnie Trotter on a number of routes for what will be one of 4 new films destined for DVD release this autumn.















