Redpath - New Route at The Anvil

News of an inspiring first ascent at Scotland's premiere sport climbing crag, The Anvil. 'FirePower'.

Dave Redpath

At F8b (perhaps harder) it certainly isn't cutting edge by world standards, but for me Dave Redpath's 'career best' ascent at the weekend is inspiring for other reasons.

The quiet man of Scottish climbing isn't build like a rock god. In fact in his civvies he doesn't even really look like a climber (apologies Dave, you know what I mean!).

Dave holding the crux swing for the first time

If you saw him at the wall you would probably think 'I can climb harder than him' - Except that you won't see him at the wall. Instead he trains in his garage, and I mean 'trains', rather than the 'playing' which is all that most of us actually do down the wall.

Skin Splitting

When I went to The Anvil recently Dave was already long in residence on his latest project after a 6.00 am start and a 4 mile walk in. That day he reached a skin splitting high point having lead through the crux and held the big swing-release for the very first time on the lead. On Sunday he returned with Emma and finally succeeded.

The first photo I took at the crag, not sharp sorry, but I show it because you can see just how much effort is going on.

One reason that I am inspired is because in recent days I have just myself committed to a 'career best' climbing objective. Much as I respect the massive achievements of so many of the top climbers that we film, somehow Redpath's example seems more relevent to us lesser mortals. Also like Redpath I have finally buckled down to training properly. After 18 months of rock climbing plateau I feel like I am moving forward again. Exciting.

--
Dave

The Anvil

I headed west yesterday to The Anvil near Lochgoilhead in order to get some photos of the existing routes and also some of the hard projects still waiting to be claimed.

Hanging out at The Anvil, MacLeod and Sutton

Anvil regulars, Daves Redpath and MacLeod, were occupied on their latest projects and from Edinburgh Emma and Sarah had made the long drive to check out the crag for the first time.

The Anvil Bites Back

Redpath has been making steady progress on his current project, possible F8b+? Yesterday on lead at the crux he managed to hold the swing for the first time.

Dave Redpath setting up for the crux

Holding the swing

He kept going through more hard moves and then just before reaching easier ground... a hold landed not quite right...

end of play for the day.

MacLeod had climbed Metalcore F8c+ here a few days ago (see Dave MacLeod's Blog) and was now focussed on another line of similar difficulty but different character. This line has 'relatively' easy climbing that lead into two massively difficult moves.

Dave MacLeod during an attempt of Metalcore F8c+

I climbed Friendly Fire F7a which I reckon is the best line at that grade in Scotland.

Emma Sutton through the first crux on Friendly Fire F7a

Emma was also on the line climbing well and rapidly had to re-think her objectives for the climbing season. 'F7a by the end of the year' became 'F7a by the end of today', and she very nearly pulled it off reaching a tantilising high point of 2 moves from the top.

Emma at the top of Friendly Fire F7a

Sarah and I tried Spitfire F8a+ which we both thought was superb, if somewhat out of my league. (ok, way out of my league). Something to train for.

A good fun day and some good pictures collected for the photo library.
--
Dave

Siurana - Flying Visit

Straight after Kendal we did a quick turnround and headed out to Spain for a few days of filming and photography. Dave B. heading up the ropes for another take (all photos copyright Hot Aches Images)



Diff hanging out between shots.

Scottish climbers Dave Redpath and Dave MacLeod were the main people we were out to film. Other climbers in town included Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Yuji Hirayama and Dani Andrada as well as the ever present Toni who is the guardian from the refuge. The Dave's were suffering from the heat and a bit of sun stroke - 3 months since the sun has shone in Scotland. Redpath was focused on a cracking line, Anabolica, a steady 8a. MacLeod was back for unfinished business on Lodi Social (sp) 8c+ as well as a look at El Muerte (Rich Simpson's 9a) and some other hard routes. Sharma et al were occupied on La Rambla 9a+.

Things didn't quite go to plan however Redpath pulled it out of the bag to send Anabolica on his last go of the last day. (how many times do climbers manage to do that?)

Dave Redpath on Anabolica f8a

Dave MacLeod flashing the same route (his first f8a flash!)

Dave MacLeod figured out a direct sequence on A Muerte f9a, avoiding the big reach left followed by big reach back right - instead a heinious looking 2 finger match, but it worked. Good progress and looking very possible.

Mr Siurana, Toni Arbones from the refuge on his latest project. Here shaking out 20 metres up on this very steep f8b+ before lauching into the crux sequence. (failed today)

Dave MacLeod on Lodi Social (sp) f8c+. Very close but not this time.

Over on La Rambla there were no ticks whilst we were there. Yuji was on his fourth visit foucused on the route and a huge number of redpoints. We watched some video that Toni shot that day. Yugi fell on the final crux. He's reached this point a countless times. It was nice to meet him. A very happy and humble guy, and a realy graceful climber. I hope he succeeds. When we left he had only 2 redpoint days left. I didn't really get to see the other guys climb which was a shame. Next time maybe. We'll be back later in January when the Scottish contingent might find temperatures more to their liking.

E11 received it's 'Spanish premiere' in the campsite bar. There were a lot of startled viewers who are not really used to the strange discipline of trad climbing. Huge falls and gear snapping definately earned Dave Mac a bit of respect from the locals. If you are passing that way you will probably catch it on in the bar - spanish subtitles and all...