First Ascent ‘Silent Scream’ E7

Pete Whittaker

A team from Hot Aches were there to film ‘Grit Kid’ Pete Whittaker’s first ascent of ‘Silent Scream’ E7 6c. The route traverses the length of the Cioch Block in the Southern Quarry of Burbage South before finishing up the existing line ‘Masters of the Universe’ E7 6c.

Pete Whittaker topping out on Silent Scream 

Andy Pollitt made the first ascent of ‘Masters…’ back in 1988. I remember it made the front cover of one of the mags, ‘High’, I think, maybe OTE. It’s an interesting route in that, like its neighbour ‘Offspring’ (as seen in ‘Stone Monkey’), both leader and second have to abseil to a starting belay on the corner of the block.

Pete had previously climbed ‘Masters..’ ground up… well, ground up apart from the abseil in! Maybe ‘Abseil Up’ is the correct style description. He then looked for a way to dispense with the ab rope.

The new route starts on the left edge of the block and traverses a line lower than the existing girdle, ‘Silent Spring’ E4 5c.

 

Cross-through on the traverse

Pete’s mum, Jill, was belaying on the ledge. 

Jill Whittaker

The route is protected by a few ancient rusty bolts, which date back to a time when aid climbing was practised on this crag (1960’s?).

Ancient bolt

The route is also protected by a sling behind a ‘shipwreck’ of a block; I’m not sure what I’d trust more, the block or the rusty bolts. 

Pete hanging off the 'shipwreck' block

Once Pete reached the right side of the block he clipped a second rope into four more rusty bolts, belayed from the quarry floor by his dad, Paul. Then with a parent on each rope, Pete climbed the arete ‘Masters of the Universe’ to finish.

 Pete gurns through the last move

‘Silent Scream’ E7 6c

diff

Committed 2 Wins In Banff

We are making the long journey home to the UK from Banff, Canada. Whoever booked the flights clearly didn't take time to look at a globe, for I am currently sitting in an airport at Houston, Texas, feeling rather tired.

At Banff this year the Brits scooped just about all of the climbing related awards:
Rockfax won Best Guidebook
Al Lee won a judges special prize for Patagonian Winter
And Hot Aches won 3 Awards, yes 3 ?!?

Banff Mountian Film Festival is probably the most presigious of all festivals to win awards at, so we were pretty happy chaps, as you might well imagine.


The awards we received were. Best Climbing Film. Best Short Film. Audio Post Production Award


It is only 10 days now until Committed 2 will be out. A reminder of course that you can pre-order your copy at the link on the right.

--
Dave B

ps. Quote of the week was from Andy Kirkpatrick (via Al Lee) 'Andy can't be here to receive the award as he is currently in the States teaching Barak Obama to slackline...'

Award for Committed 2

We were really pleased tonight to pick up an award for our new DVD - which isn't even out yet, another 4 weeks to wait I'm afraid, but for very good reason, I assure you.

The new DVD contains 5 separate films, and most of these will be premiering at Banff and Kendal film festivals soon. however we decided to show one of the films at Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival. It was one of our favorites from the DVD, in fact.

Grit Kids features the audacious climbing talents of two teenagers from the Peak District. You might remember our blog posts from earlier this year.


The Whittakers (featured in the film) are not going to be at Kendal (they are going climbing...) so we thought it would be cool for them to see the film for the first time in the theater in Edinburgh. And we are really happy to have seen how well it was received. As a film maker you know you have done your job well when it is the climbers, rather than the film makers, that people go up to afterwards and say "that was amazing"...

...and enough people did think "that was amazing" for Grit Kids to pick up the Go Fast People's Choice Award at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival.



It was cool to watch the reaction to a film that we found quite hard to make. All the other films on the DVD have been quite straightforward. But the Whittakers just kept climbing and climbing. The decision on what story to tell was a tough one.

Committed 2 is out in early November. The trailer will be out in a couple of weeks, so we will keep you posted.

dave b.

Dynamics of Change, E9 - Another Last Great Problem on Grit

Dynamics of Change

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

When the belayer asks to have their own spotter… you can tell the route is somewhat serious.

Dynamics of Change climbs the arete to a break, then swings outsteeply to the right before joining Brail Trail at the top . Hot Aches Images.

Last Great Problems on England’s grit stone are something quite special; unclimbed lines that are talked about, looked at, and occasionally tried by the best climbers of each generation. The LGP List compiled by J Reid is well known amongst British climbers.

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

The route that we went to film on Friday is listed under the ‘Bold and Technical’ category:

“Braille Trail Direct. Burbage South Some one will do it! Straight up the arete to the horizontal break (small Friends) then some hideously difficult climbing to gain the 'rest' on the arete of Braille Trail. Take in the rock-over crux of this but without those pegs!”

The climber we went to film was the youngest from the Whittaker clan. So young in fact, that he had to get permission to leave school early that day in order to have enough time for the climb before it got dark.

We met Pete at the crag at 4:15pm. Two hours of daylight remained.

Pete Whittaker final top rope, cutting loose, on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

He swiftly got to work brushing holds and practicing the moves. His entourage arrived, mother and father on belay duty, and sister Katy to watch nervously and support.

Pete Whittaker final top rope, the crux of Brail Trail - at t he end of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

As Pete tried the moves, this was the first time I had seen anyone on the line. As I watched, my jaw dropped. I could hardly believe what I was seeing. After the initial arête, the wall becomes steep. Here Pete dynos to a small hold (the point at which the arête joined Brail Trail) cutting loose, legs flying.

Effort. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

From here, miles above his gear, he then swings a heel up between his hands, and gradually rocks over on it. Rocks over on it. How? But somehow he was managing to. What remains ahead from this point is the final crux section of Brail Trail, but without any of the gear. Effectively soloing from this point. You might remember that this is the point at which Dave Jones falls on Brail Trail in Hard Grit.

It was 6 o’clock. Pete decided he would go for the lead. He hadn't even managed to link the moves from the dyno to the top, but he decided that he was ready. The atmostphere at the crag was tense. His family usually seem pretty blase, certainty that Pete will succeed. Today everybody was clearly concerned.

Pete Whittaker cutting loose on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

As Pete climbed higher I was shaking. The other camera people were shaking. His family were shaking. And as he reached the crux Pete was shaking. Everybody was willing him not to fall off. The rock over move took an age, inch by inch he fought and grimaced and slapped and pulled. "On top-rope, on top rope" was the mantra he kept repeating as he tried to gain composure for the final crux. We could hardly watch.

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

Pete did the final moves and pulled over the top. Relief and emotion was everywhere. Some spectators had crept up unnoticed to watch, and there was a spontanious round of applause. Pete was now dizzy and had to lie down on the top.

Pete Whittaker on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

Another last great problem has fallen. A stunning line. An audacious ascent.

At just turned 17, this is surely the youngest ascent of an E9 ever.

As for the grade. It would be hard for Pete to give a bigger grade to a route with so little experience under his belt.

Pete elated on top. Lynwen Griffiths filming.

John Arran (quoted on UKC had this to say about the route)
"That's a fantastic effort by Pete. I threw a rope on it last year to look at the possibility of a Braille Trail direct start and it seemed like it may be possible for someone, but it was way too hard for me that day. It's technically at least 2 grades harder than BT and unless you're able to reach left into the BT slot for gear you'd be looking at doing the crux of BT with a possible ground fall, which would make it definitely E9 and maybe harder. Even with the BT gear it's still cutting-edge stuff." [Note that Pete wasn't able to use the gear on Brail Trail].

Katy Whittaker and Lynwen Griffiths, reflecting afterwards. Hot Aches Images.

PS. No Bouldering Mats were used to protect the landing from a fall.

Grit E7s

Grit E7s

Katy Whittaker climbing Kaluza Klein, E7 6c. Robin Hood Stride. [Hot Aches Images].

The route hungry Whittakers were back in the Peak after a trip to Spanish limestone and were waiting for good weather to get onto their latest projects.

The last time we filmed Katy she succeeded on her hardest trad route ever, flashing E6. Now she had her sights set on climbing her first E7, a Johnny Dawes route called Kaluza Klein at Robin Hood’s Stride.

E7 is a grade climbed by very few women. How many? It’s hard to be sure. Lucy Creamer, Lisa Rands, Katherine Schirrmacher, Lucinda Hughes, Airlie Anderson, maybe one or two more. A small list, and none anywhere near as young as Katy.

Ryan Pasquill belaying. [Hot Aches Images].

Coincidentally Katy’s brother Pete had climbed Kaluza in 2006 when he was just 16. In fact his intention had been to onsight it, but he settled instead for a very quick head-point. Also at the time Pete had spotted an ‘unclimbed’ line on the arête to the right of Kaluza, and after some research (and cleaning) it seems that the first ascent was indeed up for grabs.

The team had recruited a new belayer for the day. The usual custodian of the ropes was Jill, their mother. Pete explained though that Jill wasn’t particularly happy when the belay duties required stage diving off the ledge, in order to take in enough slack to stop the climber hitting the ground. Ryan Pasquill seemed far more at home in performing this particular role.

Katy was up first, the epitome of cool and collected. “Far more nervous playing Mario against Pete [than now]…” apparently.

Katy Whittaker climbing Kaluza Klein, E7 6c. Robin Hood Stride. [Hot Aches Images].

The ascent was swift. A ‘big moment’ near the top when a Katy didn’t get a hold right - she span out rightwards – a moment of decision for the jumping belayer? - then she got it right, reached up, and pulled over the top.

Captain Calamity
Next up was Pete, who was equally matter of fact the ascent ahead of him.

Pete Whittaker on the first ascent of Captain Calamity, E7 6c. Robin Hood Stride. [Hot Aches Images].

Pete Whittaker on the first ascent of Captain Calamity, E7 6c. Robin Hood Stride. [Hot Aches Images].

After lots of brushing he headed off and totally cruised Captain Calamity.

Pete Whittaker after the first ascent of Captain Calamity, E7 6c. Robin Hood Stride. [Hot Aches Images].

"Hard E7" (E7 6c) was the verdict. Another impressive first ascent from the the very keen youth.

Grit Kids

'Grit Kids'

The Cowperstone. Pete Whittaker attempting Warm Love, E6 7a. Hot Aches Images

Filming for the new movie is progressing at a pace with some major ascents already captured. The Hot Aches team had been throwing some ideas around and decided that now would be a good time is to take our cameras to look at the new generation of strong climbers emerging in Britain. James Pearson might have been a ‘Keen Youth’ not so long ago, but now, at 22 ,he is virtually the elder statesman. (sorry James). So the film crew headed to one of our regular filming venues, England’s Peak District, for what turned out to be one of our most exhausting filming trips ever.

The Cowperstone. Pete Whittaker high kicking on the crux of Warm Love, E6 7a. Hot Aches Images

The Whittakers are already quite well known in British climbing circles. Katy Whittaker has been climbing since she was 6 and now, still very youthful, is the British bouldering (senior) champion. Rumour has it that she is quite handy on the grit too.

Younger brother Pete has also been establishing his credentials with some very significant ascents. Last year, at 16 years of age, he climbed several E7s and last month he made the significant first ascent of an unfinished Johhny Dawes project known as Grandad Slab - which is the direct finish to Brail Trail, at Burbage South. Other more esoteric achievements include the second ascent of the complete traverse of Stanage Edge (3 miles?) Ron Fawcett set the mark for this in 1990, with a time of 6 hours. Pete was a little slower, blaming his speed on having forgotten to take with him any sandwiches or drink for the day.

Our weekend started at The Cowperstone. Pete’s objective was to climb Warm Love, a Johhny Dawes route from 1995. The guidebook describes the crux section thus:

“involves a dynamic throw for a heel smear to reach the pebble. Brilliant! Unrepeated?”

In fact, Ben Bransby sneaked in the second ascent quite recently. The route was originally graded E7 7b. The current guidebook says E6 7a. Either way, that translates to ‘safe - but virtually impossible’. Seriously, the elusive grade of ‘British 7b’ has hardly ever been touted for a route in Britain before.

The Cowperstone. a flexible Pete Whittaker on the crux of Warm Love, E6 7a. Hot Aches Images

I won’t give too much away. The film of this is certainly worth waiting for. However, I will say that all of the attempts and then the subsequent ascent bore witness to some of the most fantastic footage that we have ever filmed; extreme contortions of both body and face in a gut wrenching orgy of sheer damn effort. It was fantastic climbing, and especially so from a man this young.

Sister Katy didn’t fancy a go at this one herself... She had other projects in her sights, and so we headed swiftly on to Burbage South where she and Pete warmed up by soloing a rapid succession of routes between E2s and an E5. Mum Jill watched on quite nonchalantly as her kids ticked off route upon route, several of which would have represented a lifetime ambition for most of us.

Then swiftly on to the Katy’s objective, Nosferatu E6 6b. Apparently Pete had blown the ‘onsight’ of this a while ago, by jumping off low down when things went wrong, and then rolling down the hill. When we arrived I looked at the clutter of boulders beneath the route and wondered just how good your aim would have to be to successfully dismount from above that.

Katy Whittaker contemplating Nosferatu E6 6b. Hot Aches Images.

Katy has onsighted E5 and ‘headpointed’ E6 before. But to ‘flash’ E6 – (to have information about the moves, but to climb first go without pre-practice), this would be her hardest climb to date. Furthermore, the route involves a dyno at the top, which the British bouldering champion declared is the one type of move that she is ‘rubbish at’.

Katy Whittaker at the top of Nosferatu E6 6b. Hot Aches Images

Katy was on good form and moved swiftly through the unprotected first half. The dyno move at the top took more consideration. She tried static several times, climbing up and down before launching for the finishing jug. A first female E6 ‘flash’ on grit? Possibly, but hard female ascents are often missed in climbing news. So quite possibly not. Maybe Lisa Rands or Lucy Creamer has managed the same? Regardless, it was a fantastic ascent on a very classic line.

The climbing for the day still wasn’t over. Pete ticked of Pebble Mill, E5 6b before the light disappeared, and the camera crew hobbled home exhausted.

Next day the plan was an early start back to Cowperstone before the sun wreaked its havoc on the precious gritstone friction. We were back here because Pete had kept flying off the day before. When we left the car park this morning the temperature was -2c. How cold does it need to be for these Grit Kids? Oddly enough, Pete had failed to climb the route the week before because his fingers were too cold. However, now the sun was now on the dark rock, and it was warming up fast. So for Pete, after a quick top rope practice there was probably time for just one attempt before the friction disappeared completely. It was all a great rush, but he grimaced every single ounce of effort, and topped out with a beaming smile.

The Cowperstone. Pete Whittaker succeding on the crux of Warm Love, E6 7a. Hot Aches Images

9.30am and the route was already in the bag. One of the film crew voted for a pub lunch, but it was way too early for English pubs to be open, and it was also Katy’s turn once more. The other major climb on her list was West Side Story, a classic V9 at Burbage North.

The film crew were in luck at last. We were at the crag so early that the line was still in the sun. Nothing to be done, but doze for a couple of hours.

Katy Whittaker on West Side Story, V9. Burbage North. Hot Aches Images.

West Side Story has been climbed by a few women in the past, but apparently none of them finished directly up the highball continuation. Once the sun moved off, Pete and Katy were both trying the problem,

Pete Whittaker on West Side Story, V9. Burbage North. Hot Aches Images.

but this time it was Katy that latched the dyno, and with no hesitation she continued on upwards. ‘I would have got so much flack [from some particular Lancashire climber] if I hadn’t done the direct finish’.

Katy Whittaker on West Side Story, V9. Burbage North. Hot Aches Images.