Tuesday, 22 May 2007

Redpath - New Route at The Anvil

News of an inspiring first ascent at Scotland's premiere sport climbing crag, The Anvil. 'FirePower'.

Dave Redpath

At F8b (perhaps harder) it certainly isn't cutting edge by world standards, but for me Dave Redpath's 'career best' ascent at the weekend is inspiring for other reasons.

The quiet man of Scottish climbing isn't build like a rock god. In fact in his civvies he doesn't even really look like a climber (apologies Dave, you know what I mean!).

Dave holding the crux swing for the first time
If you saw him at the wall you would probably think 'I can climb harder than him' - Except that you won't see him at the wall. Instead he trains in his garage, and I mean 'trains', rather than the 'playing' which is all that most of us actually do down the wall.



Skin Splitting



When I went to The Anvil recently Dave was already long in residence on his latest project after a 6.00 am start and a 4 mile walk in. That day he reached a skin splitting high point having lead through the crux and held the big swing-release for the very first time on the lead. On Sunday he returned with Emma and finally succeeded.


The first photo I took at the crag, not sharp sorry, but I show it because you can see just how much effort is going on.

One reason that I am inspired is because in recent days I have just myself committed to a 'career best' climbing objective. Much as I respect the massive achievements of so many of the top climbers that we film, somehow Redpath's example seems more relevent to us lesser mortals. Also like Redpath I have finally buckled down to training properly. After 18 months of rock climbing plateau I feel like I am moving forward again. Exciting.

--
Dave

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