Kev on TV

Kev Sheilds on The Benny Hill Show at The Quadrocks

A Hot Aches film about climber, Kev Shields will be broadcast on Current TV this Monday night at 9pm. You may recognise Kev as one of the featured climbers in Committed Vol 1.

The film follows Kev climbing in Scotland and Northern Ireland and examines his motivations for hard trad climbing.



Current TV can be found here: SKY 193, Virgin 155

Air Time at Dumbarton

Air Time at Dumbarton

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

One of the best things about having made climbing films for some years now is that we get to work with people again and again in different places around the world. I was looking forward to the current shoot with Sonnie Trotter and Cory Richards because because working with them is just plain simple good fun.

Sonnie and Cory. Caption competition?

Truth is that I wasn’t really expecting Sonnie to be back in Scotland trying Rhapsody this spring. We had planned it long ago, but Sonnie is too modest a man to mention on his blog the setbacks that he had this spring. Malaria, then a back injury and then work, all conspired to keep him off the rock for a prolonged period. At last, very late, he got back to climbing and found some form. So another visit to Dumbarton Rock was on.

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

Cory Richards’ preparation was even worse. ‘8 months on the couch’, and now he is here to climb a route way harder than anything he has ever climbed before (on bolts, or trad). Cory is a photographer, and trips are always photography first and climbing second. But this time is different, and so for both guys the visit to Dumbarton is really about refinding their climbing mojo and regaining fitness. I think I’m actually a bit jealous. This year has all been filming first, and climbing last. To take three weeks off to focus on a superb route; now that would just be heaven.

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

It is hard for high profile climbers to go about their task anonymously. The internet has been buzzing with reports of the guys’ progress. Each day at the crag a friendly and enthusiastic crowd gathers. Sonnie has also been giving his perspective on his climbing and all things Scottish on his blog.

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

The weather has been exceptional this year. Every day has been dry. Normally we will get a good week in May, but not a whole month. But the truth is that climbing conditions have been quite poor. It has been hot and everyday the wind has been from the east, meaning that the headwall has been sheltered by the castle. Then at last, late on Thursday really good conditions did finally arrive. Unfortunately Sonnie had already blown it. And he was mad. Really mad. And yes, quite rightly so. He had warmed up on the route while it was still hot and lost too much skin.

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

Now conditions were perfect. Up on the headwall I filmed as he powered his way higher, looking composed and comfortable. Then as he traversed towards me into the crux I saw that he had his finger tips taped up. The fall was almost inevitable. But Sonnie’s rationale was good. A small chance of success, but more likely he will take that big fall. Becoming comfortable with the fall is essential for success. And so, to emphasis the point, he pulled up, and climbed through once more, falling from even higher.

Sonnie Trotter attempting Rhapsody E11. Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Copyright Hot Aches Images

The progress of Cory on Requiem is pretty inspiring. Each day achieves a piece of progress, a sequence refined, a longer link, a gain in stamina.

Cory Richards, new dental arrangement after an encounter with Requiem, E8 6c. Copyright Sonnie Trotter

So now there are just a few days left. I have no doubt that Sonnie can climb the route. Whether he will, in the time he has left, is far from certain. But that is good. If outcomes were certain, then they just wouldn’t be interesting. The climbing ability is there. Success is down to tactics, timing, strategy, conditions and of course luck.

Comparisons with Dave MacLeod are perhaps inevitable. When Dave climbed it, the route was very much at his limit, harder than he had climbed before on trad or sport. Sonnie has come from a higher base, and so the climbing appears to be well within his limits. (Dave’s climbing has of course progressed in the intervening two years, and his progress in all climbing disciplines is the subject of one of our other new films.)

Interestingly Sonnie has found two additional lines up the Rhapsody headwall. Some may think this is a big deal, a more direct finish rather than the left then right of Rhapsody. But the Rhapsody sequence is superb and Sonnie is following Dave’s sequence hold for hold. So maybe the headwall will also get a new direct finish as well. We shall see. The forecast remains good. Hopefully skin will last out the week.

Dumbarton Rock. Sonnie Trotter high on the headwall. Copyright Hot Aches Images

Hot Aches are working with Sonnie Trotter on a number of routes for what will be one of 4 new films destined for DVD release this autumn.

Music Wanted for New Movies

Music for New Climbing Films

The Hot Aches team is now heavily into editing mode for the new autumn release as part of Committed Volume 2. We are currently working on three movies and, as always, we are on the look out for good music to use in these.

We are looking both for bands and individual musicians to submit tracks for potential inclusion. Our award winning films attract large audiences around the world, through DVD sales and also through screenings at festivals and international tours.

So if you are a musician, or you know any musicians or bands who might have suitable music and are keen to get involved in this project, then please get in touch as soon as possible: to pauld@hotaches.com

If you have not yet seen our films then have a look at the film trailers page on our website to get a flavour of what our films our about.

-- Working with musicians is always a key stage in the film making process. Check out the link for Chris Hall who is one talented musician, DJ and composer who has done a lot of work with us over the years. You might recognise some of the clips in his showreel --

Thanks

Paul / Dave

Back to Back - XI,11s

From a first ascent on the grit we then headed north to the Scottish Highlands for another of our film projects The AllRounder and an appointment to film Dave MacLeod.

Something was wrong. We arrived in Fort William to pick Dave up at 6pm, but he wasn't there. Almost certainly he must have found a belayer and gone again up to his winter project on Ben Nevis?

Dave MacLeod attempting his Ben Nevis project in 2006, XI,11. Hot Aches Images.

I had been up to the route two years ago with Dave to second him and take photos. I recall a frigid three hours at that first belay. Thin boots with bolt on crampons needed for the highly technical moves. Minimal clothing to be able try and climb hard.

That day Dave failed, as he did on many other attempts, all ground up from the start. I was relieved that day. The prospect of seconding the became quite terrifying as I waited. In theory I can climb that sort of difficulty, about M11. The reality of course is that continental mixed climbing is a million miles away from the full on Scottish experience. An M11, pre-practiced, protected by bolts, 15 minutes to climb it. This is all quite different from the huge scottish walk-in, blizzard conditions, onsight climbing, 12 hours on the route (in this case). So yes. I was quite terrified.


So how was I going to second the route? It had taken Dave many attempts and still he was falling off. How could I possibly second the moves, clean, first time. Not a hope in hell. And the crux pitch is a traverse, so each failure means falling down into the void. Scary. The only prospect for seconding this was aid climbing, or cheating. The latter being one of my specialist subjects.

At 8.30 we heard from Dave. He phoned to say he was still 2 pitches from the top (and had left the house at 6.00am). Relief.

Dave was back off the hill at 11.00pm. His hardest winter day ever. A new grade XI,11 finally climbed. So our appointment to go and film another XI,11 the next daywith him looked rather in doubt. But no, Dave was still up for that! so we retired to get ready to film the next day.

Dave MacLeod on The Hurting, XI,11. Hot Aches Images.

Monday saw us in The Cairngorms, to film The Hurting. Another of Dave's routes, and an extremely dangerous and technical climb. I had abseiled this in preparation for filming, and again thought about the prospects of climbing it. About M11, but two crux sections with groundfall certainly should you make a mistake. Tiny holds, sometimes your pick just behind crystals. I can't stress enough how different this is to the kind of mixed climbing abroad.

Monday was a wild day, -25 degree windchill, wind blowing vertically upwards, freezing your eyelashes and our camera lenses. Buffeted all over the place. Totally wild and crazy.

Dave MacLeod on The Hurting, XI,11. Hot Aches Images.

So for the second day in a row MacLeod climbed an 'Scottish Winter XI,11' the two hardest routes in the UK, and both unrepeated.

Congratulations to Jo French who climbed Dave's Ben Nevis route with him. You must be mad!

Dynamics of Change, E9 - Another Last Great Problem on Grit

Dynamics of Change

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

When the belayer asks to have their own spotter… you can tell the route is somewhat serious.

Dynamics of Change climbs the arete to a break, then swings outsteeply to the right before joining Brail Trail at the top . Hot Aches Images.

Last Great Problems on England’s grit stone are something quite special; unclimbed lines that are talked about, looked at, and occasionally tried by the best climbers of each generation. The LGP List compiled by J Reid is well known amongst British climbers.

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

The route that we went to film on Friday is listed under the ‘Bold and Technical’ category:

“Braille Trail Direct. Burbage South Some one will do it! Straight up the arete to the horizontal break (small Friends) then some hideously difficult climbing to gain the 'rest' on the arete of Braille Trail. Take in the rock-over crux of this but without those pegs!”

The climber we went to film was the youngest from the Whittaker clan. So young in fact, that he had to get permission to leave school early that day in order to have enough time for the climb before it got dark.

We met Pete at the crag at 4:15pm. Two hours of daylight remained.

Pete Whittaker final top rope, cutting loose, on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

He swiftly got to work brushing holds and practicing the moves. His entourage arrived, mother and father on belay duty, and sister Katy to watch nervously and support.

Pete Whittaker final top rope, the crux of Brail Trail - at t he end of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

As Pete tried the moves, this was the first time I had seen anyone on the line. As I watched, my jaw dropped. I could hardly believe what I was seeing. After the initial arête, the wall becomes steep. Here Pete dynos to a small hold (the point at which the arête joined Brail Trail) cutting loose, legs flying.

Effort. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

From here, miles above his gear, he then swings a heel up between his hands, and gradually rocks over on it. Rocks over on it. How? But somehow he was managing to. What remains ahead from this point is the final crux section of Brail Trail, but without any of the gear. Effectively soloing from this point. You might remember that this is the point at which Dave Jones falls on Brail Trail in Hard Grit.

It was 6 o’clock. Pete decided he would go for the lead. He hadn't even managed to link the moves from the dyno to the top, but he decided that he was ready. The atmostphere at the crag was tense. His family usually seem pretty blase, certainty that Pete will succeed. Today everybody was clearly concerned.

Pete Whittaker cutting loose on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

As Pete climbed higher I was shaking. The other camera people were shaking. His family were shaking. And as he reached the crux Pete was shaking. Everybody was willing him not to fall off. The rock over move took an age, inch by inch he fought and grimaced and slapped and pulled. "On top-rope, on top rope" was the mantra he kept repeating as he tried to gain composure for the final crux. We could hardly watch.

Pete Whittaker on the Crux of Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

Pete did the final moves and pulled over the top. Relief and emotion was everywhere. Some spectators had crept up unnoticed to watch, and there was a spontanious round of applause. Pete was now dizzy and had to lie down on the top.

Pete Whittaker on Dynamics of Change. E9 7a. Hot Aches Images.

Another last great problem has fallen. A stunning line. An audacious ascent.

At just turned 17, this is surely the youngest ascent of an E9 ever.

As for the grade. It would be hard for Pete to give a bigger grade to a route with so little experience under his belt.

Pete elated on top. Lynwen Griffiths filming.

John Arran (quoted on UKC had this to say about the route)
"That's a fantastic effort by Pete. I threw a rope on it last year to look at the possibility of a Braille Trail direct start and it seemed like it may be possible for someone, but it was way too hard for me that day. It's technically at least 2 grades harder than BT and unless you're able to reach left into the BT slot for gear you'd be looking at doing the crux of BT with a possible ground fall, which would make it definitely E9 and maybe harder. Even with the BT gear it's still cutting-edge stuff." [Note that Pete wasn't able to use the gear on Brail Trail].

Katy Whittaker and Lynwen Griffiths, reflecting afterwards. Hot Aches Images.

PS. No Bouldering Mats were used to protect the landing from a fall.

More Awards

Ice Mines

It was great to hear recently that Ice Mines has received an award; Best Canadian film at Vancouver International Film Festival.

Will Gadd in the ice mines. Photo copyright Christian Pondella.

This movie is directed by Canadian Will Gadd, and features Will and Andreas Spaak on an outrageous ice climbing adventure, 200 metres underground in Sweden's abandoned silver mines.

Will Gadd climbing an ancient ice sculpture. Photo copyright Christian Pondella.

It was filmed by Hot Aches' Dave Brown and Slackjaw's Ben Pritchard.

The crew. Photo copyright Christian Pondella.

The jury statement: "Astounding cinematography and the mind-blowing weirdness of an extreme location made this film difficult to not pay attention to. The idea of climbing down below the surface of the earth to begin the climb back up produced a novel and exhilarating ride."

Dave Brown defrosting a Sony Z1. Photo copyright Christian Pondella.

Congratulations to the whole team, Gadd, Andreas Spak, Daniel Karlsson, Dave Brown, Ben Pritchard, Christian Pondella, Emerge Media.

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Hot Aches' own productions have also continued to pick up awards, 16 in total now. Most recently Committed: Keen Youth won The People's Choice at both the London and Glasgow Mountain Film Festivals.

Commendation for diving film

3 Lakes Challenge

Lynwen Griffiths is one of the Hot Aches' regular camera crew on this year's productions. Her 12 years of experience filming at locations as varied as the Belizian jungle and K2 is all pretty usefull stuff.

Lynwen Griffiths. Gozo.

Below is a short film from her production company, Bamboo Chicken.
"3 Lakes Challenge" has just won an unlikely Commendation at the British UnderWater Image Festival. I use the word "unlikely" because, as the judges noted, it didn't have a single underwater image in the whole 9 minutes.








Makes you think, doesn't it. Maybe we should do the next climbing film, and not bother with any of that climbing rubbish...

Lynwen Griffiths. In Belize - (Not filming underwater for 3 Lakes Challenge)

See Bamboo Chicken website